Okay, let’s get this straight right off. We have NOT had coffee, though it is UBIQUITOUS here now. And it’s not just the slightly coffee flavored tea I had once, trekking 14 years ago. It’s espresso, lattes, cappuccinos, latte art (even found a latte art school).
I’ll admit, 14 years ago I succumbed after 7 weeks of trekking and no coffee (except the one tea/coffee mentioned above) to a REAL latte at “Starbucks” Lukla. Most folks trekking in the Everest area fly in and out of the tiny Lukla airstrip with its tiny tilted runway in tiny little planes where you watch the pilot getting his tea through the cockpit window before takeoff. We had hiked into the area, flying out at the end (taking off being the safer option here, Mom), which is what we’re doing this time as well. So, “Starbucks” Lukla here we come (though only on the way out!) For an extensive and riveting discussion of this historic event, see my blog post from December 10, 2009, titled “3,286 Cups of Tea and 3 Cups of Coffee…”. Hmmm, I don’t really remember that 3rd cup. I’ll have to go back and read up!
Anyway, what this is all getting at is that here in Nepal, for us it’s tea all the way! And not just any tea, but Nepali milk tea (black tea with spices, milk and sugar). ‘Cause where’s our cred in a foreign culture if we’re eating and drinking like Westerners?
So it's also been dal bhat (which I love) for me every day. It’s the national dish, basically rice, lentils, and curried veggies when available. Here in the lowlands (Kathmandu is at 4,300 ft. elevation) it’s usually surrounded by an array of stuff to mix in – hot spicy things in various shapes and sizes, spicy pickled somethings, yogurt, maybe some pappadams (chiplike). AND they bring you SECONDS! Marc’s palate has been more varied: had something similar to dal bhat (though no free seconds) which included beaten rice – sort of a cross between regular rice and Rice Krispies… hmm…. interesting. We then generally head off to the half-price-after-7pm bakery to stock up for the next day. So yes, the food is pretty spectacular.
On to Cats (remember, the title of this post: Coffee, Cats, Chaos…just so you remember what you still have to look forward to).
I just read somewhere that Nepali families have more pets these days. We did see some happy, healthy cats in a number of shops – they have perches, litter boxes, and everything – they run between shops and seem at home and well loved. There are many felted-wool shops that sell cool felted-wool kitty houses (beds), a round, cozy, enclosed soft space that our two grandkitties would love. But carrying around two of these things is just not going to happen (sorry Persy and The Void).
Oh, and when I say “shops” it’s probably not what you are picturing (unless you’ve been here or someplace similar). The shops endlessly line the narrow streets and alleyways (which are like canyons amongst the buildings), ranging in width from 4 feet (yes, four) to an expansive 8 feet. These tiny shops have so many colorful offerings: clothing made with sparkling cloth, meticulously fine mandala paintings, brass bells and Buddhas and singing bowls, prayer flags, felted yaks, embroidered shirts, beaded tapestries, sizzling food, and mountains of knock-off outdoor gear, tiger balm, flutes, and weird violin things (which we actually own from last time). Then you get past the tourist area to shops with pots and pans, meat out in the open, vegetable markets, and Western clothing.
Which brings us to Chaos (remember the title).
All these streets are awash with swarms of motorbikes, cars, taxis, rickshaws, a weird tar “truck” belching smoke that looked like it was built out of a coal fired rototiller and spare bike parts, dogs, people, more people, more people. The vehicles do not have emissions control, and there seem to be no traffic rules, and there are hawkers of every type everywhere, dirt, noise, grime.
But still, it’s Kathmandu. Just the name is exotic.
A few days ago we were at Asan Tole – supposedly the busiest square in the city. Lonely Planet says that Cat Stevens wrote his famous “Kathmandu” song “in a smoky teahouse in Asan Tole.” So there you have it.
We do know how incredibly privileged we are, as Westerners. This area of Kathmandu (Thamel), so colorful and chaotic, is not the slums. We can walk into an expensive Western hotel and use the restroom, or just escape the clamor. We don’t get stopped because, well, we look like we belong in a Western hotel. The inequity is overwhelming.
There is such a range of life here.
We head off at 4am tomorrow for a 12 hour ride in a cramped jeep/SUV to Phaplu, where we’ll start our trek (we’ll be trekking for 40 days or so). We’re excited to get to the mountains. The Himalaya, the Land of the Snows. Phaplu is at 8,200 feet. So up, up, up we go!
So far we have internet. We even have a Nepali phone number (so we could get data). Such modern conveniences. It boggles the mind.
Until next time, here’s a few pics.
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